I have worked with my Alienware M17X R2 a few hours this morning then shut it down to do something else.One hour later I start it but the screen is blank. I do not even see the boot sequence.I tried Yogi's recommendation ( take out battery for 30s, reinstall battery, connect power cable, press and hold power button for 10s) to no effect.I tried fn+F6 many times to no effect.I know the laptop is working because I see the drive working (blinking logo), the camera is starting for face recognition and I see it on the network and can indeed access shared files.Unfortunately Windows 7 remote connection seems deactivated, I can't seem to make it work.Any suggestions to make the screen work again?Thanks in advance. Click to expand.Not quite sure what you did there. If you meant to do a CMOS reset (reset the BIOS), then the sequence is:1.
To view all drivers for your Alienware M17x R4, go to Drivers and downloads. Alienware On Screen Display Application This package provides the application for Alienware On Screen Display and is supported on Alienware Notebook M17XR4/M18XR2 that is running the following Windows Operating System: Windows 7-64 bit. Get drivers and downloads for your Dell Alienware M17x R2. Download and install the latest drivers, firmware and software.
Unplug the power adapter from the notebook.2. Remove the battery from the notebook.3. Open the bottom cover and unplug the button battery. It's wrapped in black plastic sitting right between HDD 1 and the RAM. It has a small two wire cable sticking out of it that plugs into the motherboard. Unplug that cable.4.
With the button battery unplugged, press and hold the power button on your notebook for 30 seconds to drain the power and reset the BIOS.5. Plug in both batteries and the power adapter again and start up.If this doesn't work, it could be the inverter in your LCD screen has gone bad or the LCD cable has come loose from the motherboard for some reason (pray for the second option). You can check the LCD cable by removing the power/media center cover, and then they keyboard. The LCD cable is the widest of the two going to the LCD screen. You should unplug and replug it in just to make sure.
Unfortunately, if the LCD screen inverter has gone kaputnik then the only option is to disassemble the whole LCD screen and replace the inverter, which isn't easy or cheap. I have attached a photo of where to look in HWinfo for the Dell part no. It will look something like my part no, five characters, usually two letters and three numbers. Per Katalin in this post:These are the part numbers for the LCD screens for the R2.
The first two (which included my part no.) are Dual CCFL panels. The second two are the RGB panels. If you do have an RGB panel, then it will not have an inverter and the black screen problem is being caused by something else.
Lets figure out which LCD panel y'all got and then we can go from there.- Dual CCFL panel 1440.900 (900p) - U519K - 170BT - SEC5442- Dual CCFL panel 1920.1200 (1200p) - R610K - 170CT - DELL G517T- RGB panel 1920.1200 (1200p) - K1NFP - 170CT - first RGB version - SEC5443 - DELL 0CWMH- RGB panel 1920.1200 (1200p) - J2CY8 - 170CT - second RGB version, TrueLife display - SEC5443 - DELL 0CWMH. I have attached a photo of where to look in HWinfo for the Dell part no. It will look something like my part no, five characters, usually two letters and three numbers. Per Katalin in this post:These are the part numbers for the LCD screens for the R2.
The first two (which included my part no.) are Dual CCFL panels. The second two are the RGB panels. If you do have an RGB panel, then it will not have an inverter and the black screen problem is being caused by something else. Lets figure out which LCD panel y'all got and then we can go from there.- Dual CCFL panel 1440.900 (900p) - U519K - 170BT - SEC5442- Dual CCFL panel 1920.1200 (1200p) - R610K - 170CT - DELL G517T- RGB panel 1920.1200 (1200p) - K1NFP - 170CT - first RGB version - SEC5443 - DELL 0CWMH- RGB panel 1920.1200 (1200p) - J2CY8 - 170CT - second RGB version, TrueLife display - SEC5443 - DELL 0CWMH.
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Will a screensaver run my laptop's battery down?They will use your battery power. Keep in mind your monitor uses up quite a bit of power, so having it not just on but also displaying moving images will continue to use power.If you're concerned with battery life, you should do one of two things to maximize it, 1) Have your monitor go to an all black screen until you're ready to use it again, or even better 2) set your settings so the screen turns off instead of displaying a screen saver.Truth be told, screensavers were something of importance years ago as an attempt to minimize potential image burns into screens and monitors.
Today, that threat is pretty much entirely gone, but because so many people liked the moving images, it was simply kept, as opposed to an all black screen or having the monitor disabled until activity began again.But generally speaking, yes having your screen on will continue to use power, having it display (moving images) will use even more power. Set it to go black or disable the screen for short durations where it's not being used, and for longer periods, have it go to sleep or hibernate.How do you charge a lithium ion laptop battery?Use it mostly on charger. Try to not go too often deep discharged, if possible. I used this approach and my laptops (I have three now) goes first at tenth year, second beyond sixth year, they are obsolete now and still have 60% respective 65% of battery life.I had used the last netbook on charger day-by-day, around 15–16 hours a day ON, part of this time was of course in standby but plugged in, and I stopped (unplugged) it when going to bed. It does not matter too much if you forgot it on charger, but yes, there is a (very) slightly damaging effect of living it on charge all the time. But it is FAR less than cycling it.I did less than twice a year full deep discharge. I avoided it, because deep discharge cycles counts more to the lifespan.
Dell Alienware M17x R2
These are only necessary sometimes to reset the battery electronics which tells you accurately the capacity. But is not really need to be accurate - at least not always. The error of display percentage grows to maybe 10% in a year.As a last advice, if you travel a lot and do not have where to plug often and also don’t have time to leave it on charger and work with it on charger, the least damage when cycling it is in the middle of the state-of-charge. That means if you charge it as soon as possible (even if its only discharged to 45–55%), to avoid deep discharges, and unplug it when goes up beyond 70–75%.
As much time is in the middle, will have least damage from cycling. A 10–20% charge or discharge in the middle of the charge is not sensed by the battery life as a 10–20% of a cycle, but far less (maybe 2–3%). Yes, the electronics will count it as 10 or 20% from a cycle, but that does not matter in reality for the battery. But when you know you’ll have power for hours (when at home), you can keep it on charger to go to 100% and continue to keep it at 100%, because is less damaging to stay at 100% than to do microcycles. Search Tips:.
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